|  | Topic : Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter |  |
| | | DizzE | | Thor |  |  | | Reg. Date | : | 12/07/2010 | | Posts | : | 3,141 | | Location | : | Sunnyvale, CA, United States |
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| | Posted : 06 Jul 2014 - 19:20 Post title : Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter | | | No shortcuts here I am afraid.
In the end, the ignition key barrel, must also be undone, to make room to get the starter out.
It was those, darn it all, OEM heated grips that started it. My "fix" ended up eating the barrel off the top throttle cable in about 8000 miles. I fixed that with a roadside kit I carry. Not easy, but got me back 500 miles to home.
Heated grips have to GO> But, I need to replace them with something. So, I found a part at Bike Bandit and with a lot of rasping with a horse hoof rasp I was able to modify the original unheated grip core I had replaced. I took off 1/2 of the thickness, of the tube, carefully and glued it inside the Bike Bandit heated grip.
 SOLVED
But, now to replace the throttle cables, about $50 each. Wow. There is no way to do that without taking out the Throttle Bodies. Bummer.
Oh no. I have to take out the starter, to have room for that.
And I have to take out key barrel to do that. That step is not mentioned, btw.
The starter has to be rolled, first one way and then the other to bring it out to the right side.
Sensors on the TB MUST be unhooked from the Left side panel area. Just follow the wires back.
The airbox snorkel boots have to be placed (grunted into place) first below the bodies, to pull the assembly back and rotate the front down.
Then the snorkel boots have to wrestled above the rear, to easy the Throttle bodies to the right.
Rubber tubes have to be pulled, but you don't have to take the TBs farther right.
Then I could access the cable ends on the top inner center of the body. It's all in the manual. It is correct. I tried every to reduce the steps, but no.
At the side panel
| | Post edited by DizzE on 06 Jul 2014 - 19:24 |
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| | | ufothunderbird | | Set | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 18/02/2012 | | Posts | : | 220 | | Location | : | TBirdHills, NSW, Australia |
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| | Posted : 06 Jul 2014 - 22:33 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: DizzE) | | |
I am on my 2 nd set of heated Triumph grips - I want to replace them with the Avon Heated grips -
Can you use the existing TRIUMPH WIRING that is already in place with the new grips ? Cant the wires just be joined ? They would both be 12 V ??
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| | | rabbi | | Chaac | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 28/02/2012 | | Posts | : | 926 | | Location | : | Geelong, Victoria, Australia |
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| | Posted : 06 Jul 2014 - 23:02 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: DizzE) | | | When I changed my throttle cables I removed the seat, tank and using a magnet tool, long screwdrivers, hose remover and long pointy nose pliers and a few choice swear words, I managed to change them without going through all that bullshit.
| "Thinking is the hardest work there is, which is probably why so few people engage in it"
Henry Ford
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| | | Leethal | | Zeus | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 24/01/2011 | | Posts | : | 6,409 | | Location | : | Australia |
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| | Posted : 06 Jul 2014 - 23:03 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: DizzE) | | | Dizze I have done both of those jobs without removing the TB's or the starter switch, I did remove the main earth strap , the crankcase breather tube and the fitting that goes into the case. I did all mine on the hydraulic lift table, so maybe the higher platform makes things easier.
| Experience is something you get just after you needed it 
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
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| | | DizzE | | Thor | | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/07/2010 | | Posts | : | 3,141 | | Location | : | Sunnyvale, CA, United States |
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| | Posted : 06 Jul 2014 - 23:27 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: ufothunderbird) | | |
ufothunderbird wrote:
I am on my 2 nd set of heated Triumph grips - I want to replace them with the Avon Heated grips -
Can you use the existing TRIUMPH WIRING that is already in place with the new grips ? Cant the wires just be joined ? They would both be 12 V ?? |
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I don't know about that. I pulled it all out on both sides. This Bike Bandit has 5 heat positions. So, I used all their stuff.
The only thing is the no heated grips I have found, come with the throttle cables connector.
I found these are balanced pairs and the wiring is built into the rubber grip. So, I don't think it is a good idea to use the old wiring.
However, it is internal to the bars. These new ones are strung on the outside.
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| | | DizzE | | Thor | | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/07/2010 | | Posts | : | 3,141 | | Location | : | Sunnyvale, CA, United States |
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| | Posted : 06 Jul 2014 - 23:27 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: rabbi) | | |
rabbi wrote:
When I changed my throttle cables I removed the seat, tank and using a magnet tool, long screwdrivers, hose remover and long pointy nose pliers and a few choice swear words, I managed to change them without going through all that bullshit. |
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| | | DizzE | | Thor | | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/07/2010 | | Posts | : | 3,141 | | Location | : | Sunnyvale, CA, United States |
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| | Posted : 06 Jul 2014 - 23:31 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: Leethal) | | |
Leethal wrote:
Dizze I have done both of those jobs without removing the TB's or the starter switch, I did remove the main earth strap , the crankcase breather tube and the fitting that goes into the case. I did all mine on the hydraulic lift table, so maybe the higher platform makes things easier. |
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Possibly. I found it to be a big job to wrestle in and out. I had a better grip with it level, but low in the lift so I could straddle it.
Also, I think now that I know what it look like I might be able to do it....but it is tight.
So, you went in through the bottom?
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| | | Leethal | | Zeus | | | | Reg. Date | : | 24/01/2011 | | Posts | : | 6,409 | | Location | : | Australia |
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| | Posted : 07 Jul 2014 - 06:22 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: DizzE) | | | For the starter? yes. For the cables, much the same as Rabbi but I didn't have a magnetic tool.
| Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
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| | | daz | | Zeus | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 12/05/2009 | | Posts | : | 7,686 | | Location | : | United States |
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| | Posted : 07 Jul 2014 - 15:51 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: Leethal) | | | Does this idea have any merit in doing this? Disconnect the old cables and tape or somehow connect one end to the new cable and use the old one to pull it thru? I haven't really looked to see the obstacles so that may not be doable or even the problematic part. Just asking for when i do this. by the way, anyone have an idea how long they should last if they are regularly lubed at each end and you DON'T have the heated grips? At 37k i'm just wondering when i should change them to avoid being stuck on the road with a broken cable.
| 2010 Blue/White Thunderbird, "Brutus". 1700 kit, short tors, gutted cat, UNI filter, filter seal off, custom tune. Brutus in his native habitat: Link
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| | | DizzE | | Thor | | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/07/2010 | | Posts | : | 3,141 | | Location | : | Sunnyvale, CA, United States |
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| | Posted : 07 Jul 2014 - 16:44 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: daz) | | | daz wrote:
Does this idea have any merit in doing this? Disconnect the old cables and tape or somehow connect one end to the new cable and use the old one to pull it thru? I haven't really looked to see the obstacles so that may not be doable or even the problematic part. Just asking for when i do this. by the way, anyone have an idea how long they should last if they are regularly lubed at each end and you DON'T have the heated grips? At 37k i'm just wondering when i should change them to avoid being stuck on the road with a broken cable. |
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I don't think threading the cable is the problem. You just remove the side gusset on the right and there is easy access. The cables and the run tubes are one piece. You don't put new cables and leave the old tubes, if that is what you mean.
It is connectors on the throttlebody that are very confined access. You have to get to the tightener nuts and you need a magnet or something to pull the cable bales out of the connector slots way down in there. I could not even see how they were attached until I pulled the TBs.
| | Post edited by DizzE on 07 Jul 2014 - 16:47 |
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| | | daz | | Zeus | | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/05/2009 | | Posts | : | 7,686 | | Location | : | United States |
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| | Posted : 07 Jul 2014 - 17:12 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: DizzE) | | | Maybe some mirrors and a flashlight? One thing is for sure, if i can't figure out a way w/o removing the TB's it's going to the dealer regardless of cost....well, up to a point anyways.
| 2010 Blue/White Thunderbird, "Brutus". 1700 kit, short tors, gutted cat, UNI filter, filter seal off, custom tune. Brutus in his native habitat: Link
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| | | DizzE | | Thor | | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/07/2010 | | Posts | : | 3,141 | | Location | : | Sunnyvale, CA, United States |
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| | Posted : 07 Jul 2014 - 20:37 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: DizzE) | | |
To the question of lasting. I would say, from how the manual looks at it, it just depends on if you can no longer adjust the slack.
I am not even sure if it is a scheduled replacement item.
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| | | daz | | Zeus | | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/05/2009 | | Posts | : | 7,686 | | Location | : | United States |
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| | Posted : 07 Jul 2014 - 21:27 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: DizzE) | | | I'm thinking more along the lines of how long B4 they break. I usually don't keep a bike long enough for the cables to break, but this one i intend to keep for the long run so thats a concern.
| 2010 Blue/White Thunderbird, "Brutus". 1700 kit, short tors, gutted cat, UNI filter, filter seal off, custom tune. Brutus in his native habitat: Link
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| | | Leethal | | Zeus | | | | Reg. Date | : | 24/01/2011 | | Posts | : | 6,409 | | Location | : | Australia |
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| | Posted : 07 Jul 2014 - 22:52 Post title : Re: Throttle Body Removal or How to Change your Cables by Removing your Starter (Re: daz) | | | Daz, my pull cable broke (at the throttle end) on a ride, luckily not far from home and my riding mate lives just up the road from me with a big trailer Changing a cable on the side of the road would be very difficult, especially without the "special" tools needed. As I mentioned having the lift table is a big plus so you can get the bike at the right height while having a comfy mechanics stool to sit on, because it is one fiddly job. A good light is essential, I made up a simple hooked rod from light stainless wire to hook the cable where it sits in the guide and then to manouvre the cable end(barrel) out of it's slot. Getting the new one in required long pointy nose pliers, various thin screwdrivers etc and plenty of swearing. Long fingers are a blessing as well. I am pretty sure I had my tank off too as the cables go through all that wiring and tube mess.
There isn't much that is simple to do on this bike, other than an oil change. I compare it to my old Honda 500/4 where things are easy to get to, it even has drain screws in the forks, how hard is that to be done in design and manufacture?
| Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
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